Friday, February 22, 2008

riding the wave

It’s been an interesting few days here. In every study abroad orientation they talk about the highs and lows of this sort of experience. Sometimes I make a grammatical error or commit a cultural faux pas and it feels devastating and then sometimes I celebrate small victories. One of the most exhausting parts comes from the rapid fluctuations in my emotions. Yesterday my host dad and I had a very minor miscommunication about food that made me want to hide out in my room and then I had to go to class at the university (and I made it to class this time), which was terrifying because I was clearly the only foreign student in the class and was the only person to be sitting alone. Since we will be working on a major group project this semester I had to ask a few different groups if I could work with them before I found one. Ok now, this was probably the most difficult thing I’ve had to do this trip, going up to groups of students my age trying to conjugate verbs in a form they don’t teach in American Spanish classes the whole time hoping desperately that they will be generous enough to let me work with them. Thank goodness though my moment of courage paid off and when my group members asked where I was from they seemed just thrilled to meet an American student. It turns out not all foreigners hate Americans after all. After we all exchanged email addresses I talked with my professor, who is a very happy, laid back guy who was thrilled to talk to me, for which I’m very appreciative, we will be talking often as he has a very thick accent and I think I will have lots of questions. We ended up talking for quite awhile about his life (he showed me picture of his family on his camera phone), a relative of his who studies biology, his experience with biology, what we will be doing in class, etc. I’m so grateful to be in class with such a patient and gracious professor. So this was the high point of my day and I walked home with very high spirits.

Because it is just impossible to find spicy food here I made salsa this afternoon, though by my standards it is still a bit tame, my roommate and I decided to make a Mexican style lunch tomorrow and I’ll have to share salsa with Spaniards who have an incredibly low tolerance. My host mom is just thrilled that we are cooking and hopefully she won’t be too disappointed, cooking was never my strong point, but I miss American food.

bss

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

if I could eat all day...

While I'm full I thought I'd mention the Spanish food...

Granted I'm disappointed by the complete lack of anything spicy, they refer to any sort of dressing (olive oil with pepper, mayo, etc.) as salsa, which as you can imagine was greatly disappointing to my taste buds. But let me tell you if I wasn’t walking for hours every day I’d be packing on the pounds. There are people in my program who are actually losing weight, but they have CLEARLY not had either the Spanish tortilla or the pasta and meat sauce of Carlos Merayo, Spanish painter, host father and chef extraordinaire.

It’s not barbecue, Sardinas shrimp or homemade salsa, but it’s incredible.

Which leads me to another incredible part of Spanish culture, the siesta...sweet dreams

no pasa nada

Today has been interminable, but I’m trying to take it all in stride. After all, when in Spain…

So far I’m really enjoying being in classes and despite the fact that I manage to be wake up barely in time to leave from my morning Spanish grammar class I’m enjoying that one too. I have a fabulous Spanish teacher who has her phD in comparative languages or something like that and she is absolutely vivacious in the classroom. Right before lunch today I had flamenco at our instructor’s dance studio in the center of the city. As it turns out flamenco is incredibly difficult and I find myself concentrating very hard to move my feet, hands, hips and head all at the same time. But, we are very, very slowly learning the choreography to the dance we have to perform for the IES group in May and it’s fulfilling to see the class, and myself, progressing.

So, tonight was my first class at the University of Granada. The facultad where my class is in an area of the city called Cartuja, which is probably a 30 minute walk so to ensure that I would get there on time I took the bus that goes between the plaza next to my apartment and the university. Granada is in the driest area in all of Spain and I even think of all Europe and of course my first day at the university is also the first day in months that it’s actually raining, so I’m standing there at the bus stop with my umbrella in rain soaked shoes trying not to look overwhelmingly lost, nervous and American. Ay. Anyway, I catch the bus actually manage to get off at the right stop on the first try (I know that sounds ridiculous, but anyone who really knows me understands my TOTAL lack of a sense of direction) and ask around till I find my classroom. I sat outside the room reading and really feeling rather proud, until five minutes before my class when the room still wasn’t open. When I actually looked at the door I realized there was a note on the door saying that my class had been moved, but of course there was only a floor number, not a room number. So, in a panic I go around trying to ask people if they know where the new room is and because I know nothing about the class other than the name of the class (education and the environment) and the room number no one can actually help me. I called the woman who coordinates university classes for IES and she basically told me lots of students don’t actually go to class the first day and that it’s not a big deal. In my American mind set missing the first day of class is horrendous and rather unforgivable, but when in Spain…. One of the most popular Granadino phrases is “No pasa nada”, which essentially means it’s not a big deal. I left my facultad and wandered for about an hour until I found a familiar area so I could walk home, the whole time reminding myself “no pasa nada”. In moments like these I learn so much about Spanish culture, the American culture and myself. I was so overwhelmed, frustrated, stressed, worried, but to no real end. With a few exceptions, like waiting in line, Spaniards seem to be way more relaxed about life. We went to a flamenco show on Saturday in a theater with a beautiful view of the Alhambra and the show started about 45 minutes late and I still don’t know why. They even walk more casually down the street, so why should I be so uptight about things? I’m learning to let it go, it’s all about perspective.

Things have been very busy lately even though I have huge breaks between classes and very, very little homework. Our theater class went to see a production of En Nomeni Dei (a horrendous production, but another experience none the less), my flamenco class went to a performance by a 17 year old dancer, Saturday I talked for a long time to my abuela about her experience living in Morocco, I went for tapas with my roommate and some of our Spanish friends, I “translated” American rap for my host brother, I had a long talk about Spanish men with my host mom and her best friend, talked with 14 year old Pablo one of my host dad’s painting students. There’s a lot to keep me occupied. So much that it’s already filled a month. I hate ticking off the days because there is so much to experience here.

I learn so much every day and I try to do everything, experience everything, but it’s exhausting. I think my favorite part of being here is making friends and talking with native speakers. Sometimes I’m amazed because I find myself responding in Spanish without really thinking about what I’m saying. It’s a slow process, but I’m getting there.

bss

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Araceli y Ivan

I have a powerhouse of a host mom. This family has done so much to make me feel welcome in their home and they continually tell me that this is my home too. But, there are some days over lunch I get into a great conversation with Araceli and I learn more and more about her and I really begin to feel like family. She works full time instructing a specific type of massage class, the name of which I still have yet to learn how to spell, at a studio that she owns with two other women. She cares for a severely disabled 22-year-old son who needs constant care. She is the president of a local association that represents the disabled. She cares for her mother who lives here on the weekends. She hosts two American women every semester. And she does all the laundry, cleaning and most of the cooking for the whole crowd of us.

Today over lunch we got into a discussion about religion and though I’m usually very vocal on the subject I find it a bit more difficult in a foreign language (I know, big surprise). So we were talking about the idea of believing in something bigger and how most people are searching for something and she said the most profound thing I’ve heard in a long time. Araceli told us that she’s convinced that her disabled son Ivan is her greatest teacher. If you could meet Ivan you would begin to understand what she means. Ivan is unable to talk or make eye contact and is completely dependent on his family for all of his physical needs but when you talk to him, especially in another language, and he will give you the biggest, most beautiful smile. As Araceli said he has housed in his crippled body the more pure, kind spirit completely devoid of hate, envy or any other malicious sentiments. He’s just happy.

Despite all of the cultural differences it nice to see another family that is as devoted and loving as mine at home. How incredible to be living with another incredible family on the other side of the world.

Pull an Anna and give someone a hug today.
besos

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Cadiz


This has been a whirlwind of a week. Our IES classes started Monday and though there is very little homework so far and I have nice big breaks between classes it been exhausting to adjust back to a school schedule. It’s so strange to still not really have a routine, but I’m getting there.

My roommate and I made a short trip to Cadiz this weekend for part of the annual carnival. It’s one of those Spanish events that everyone talks about and we were curious so we took a bus and we just got back this afternoon. Cadiz is a small city that is essentially surrounded by the Mediterranean, so the view was incredible, but it was very windy. We had a great time, saw a few parades, met some people, listened to some live music, ate good food (including probably one of the best hamburgers I’ve ever had) and saw probably thousands of people in costumes.

It’s still so hard for me to believe that I’m actually here. Everywhere I go I’m surrounded by an incredible amount of beauty, history and culture, and the ride back from Cadiz was phenomenal. This promises to be another incredible week, I’ll be going to a play at the local theater with my Spanish lit/theater class and going to a flamenco show with my flamenco class, and then there’s the fact that I’m in Spain. Anyway, I have homework and my bed is just screaming my name, but I’ll call/write soon.

I just read a story about Sea Turtle, Inc. in the island's paper online. Call me crazy, but this sort of thing makes me feel so intensely emotional. What a joy to have discovered such a passion at 20 years old, I can't wait to get back.
http://spislandbreeze.com/news_more.php?id=3952_0_2_10_M

bss

Monday, February 4, 2008

Energy moves in circles...


This is a picture of the group that walked through the Plaza de Espana seated in the little Granada section.

I got back yesterday afternoon from a weekend trip to Ronda and Sevilla with our group, which started with Jessie and I getting lost and making it to the bus 25 minutes late and ended with an uncomfortable four hour ride home. But the part in the middle was fabulous, so it more than balances out. Friday afternoon we stopped in Ronda, a small city outside of Malaga, to take a walking tour and eat lunch. It’s situated on a hill so the view is absolutely incredible from every part of the city. When we got to Sevilla later that afternoon we all got ready and dressed up for a very nice dinner at a great restaurant. I always find it somewhat comical to watch the faces of 85 very obviously American students file into a restaurant and of course take it over. The next morning we woke up, had another great meal (I have never in my life been so appreciative of the hotel breakfast) and took a tour of some of the more historic areas of Sevilla (the catedral, unos palacios, etc.). I have never been a huge fan of architecture and walking around looking at buildings, but these places are incredible works of art in themselves. After doing some exploring (Sevilla is so much more Americanized and commercial, or really just big, that the businesses don’t even close during the siesta) we went to a small flamenco show, ate a little dinner and went bar hopping for a while. A friend and I struck up a conversation with a group of Spanish students and despite the initial terror of randomly talking to a group of strangers in a foreign country it was one of the more rewarding experiences I’ve had here. At first many Spaniards seem to come off as a little stand off-ish, but in conversation everyone has been very encouraging and helpful. Anyway it was a thrill. The next morning we, again, had a fabulous breakfast went on one last walking tour along the river through a big park to the Plaza de EspaƱa before getting back on the bus. A group of people made plans to go out and watch the Super Bowl, which started around 1:00am here, but I was so exhausted by the time I walked home that I went to bed.

Today was a big day here because it was our first day of classes. I placed into the second most advanced Spanish language class, which is a bit intimidating because everyone is pretty experienced and very capable of carrying on a conversation. The only group above us is full of students who are very nearly bilingual if not already. Of course all the professors encourage us to just speak without worrying about grammatical errors, but that is a bit easier said than done. My roommate finally made it in last night! We had a funny moment today when we passed in the hall, recognized each other and took a minute to hug and dance around in excitement. So, after my first class we met up so I could walk her back to our house with her suitcases. This afternoon I also had a Spanish literature/theater class, which promises to be incredible, and my Mediterranean Ecosystems class. I am so pumped about taking a biology class here, though I almost wish it was in Spanish as well because it takes the profs a little longer to think and explain things in English. On my way home I stopped to buy flamenco shoes and a few school supplies and though I’m already ready for bed I think I will meet a few friends for tapas soon. Granada is the only city in Spain with free tapas...big smile.

Keep in touch, I’m a big fan of emails and Skype.
bss